75. Peter goes West
“Travel is the only thing that makes you richer for the money spent”
Unknown author
“My opinion about travel is brief: when traveling, do not go too far, otherwise you will see something that will be impossible to forget later”
Daniel Harms
“Even in summer, going on a trip, take something warm with you, because can you know what will happen in the atmosphere?”
Kozma Prutkov
“I'm leaving here abroad to calm down from the kaleidoscopic diversity of Russian life and I think I'm not the only specimen of my kind”
Leskov
1720 [1] With the domestic affairs being settled, the border negotiations with China going on and the Baltic System being functional, Peter decided to go on an extensive trip abroad. The official goal was to visit Spa [2] in a hope that its famous waters will help with his heath problems [3].
A planned route was St. Petersburg - Riga - Danzig - Mecklenburg - Bad Pyrmont (famous spa [4]) -
- Netherlands - France - Spa - Netherlands (Amsterdam) - Berlin - Danzig - Riga - St. Petersburg.
In Danzig he was greeted by The Favorite Pet. “King Augustus gave his contemporaries the impression of a vassal who is pleasing his sovereign rather than the owner of the house, who hosted the guest of honor. Seeing how arrogant Peter treated King Augustus in Danzig, contemporaries in Western Europe were horrified.” [5]
Probably not all of them had been too “horrified” because August’s position after the LNW was not a secret and it did not noticeably improved after the Big Foolish War. However, neither the Brits nor the Dutch had been happy with the fact that they are not anymore in a position to dictate the prices in Baltic trade. George I of Britain still kept the interests of Hanover as his top priority and, besides being angry at not expanding his territories at the Swedish expense and losing Saxe Launenburg to Prussia, was afraid that Prussia and/or Denmark may want to get more and had been worried about continued Russian military presence in Mecklenburg (two infantry regiments had been left there to guarantee that the Duke will be able to raise his own army) out of fear that Peter
may want to annex Mecklenburg to Russia. To prevent this from happening, George I appealed to Emperor Charles VI to demand that he, as head of the German Empire, think about the means to save Northern Germany from the Russian preponderance.
A number of brochures had been published in Britain, the most important place between these works of journalism was occupied by the brochure "The Crisis of the North, or Impartial Discussion on the Tsar’s Policy". [6] The content of this pamphlet is as follows: after the general description of Peter, his abilities, his "purely political spirit" it refers to his ambition, his passion for the accumulation of wealth and expansion of power, his journey through Europe in 1697 and 1698, and especially his stay in England, aimed at giving Russia the opportunity to build a fleet. Quite harsh terms talk about Peter's cunning in his treatment of allies whom he forced to waste energy and money in order to make it more convenient to take advantage of the exhaustion of these states for his own ambitious plans. Thus, the author continues, Russia will become England's rival in the near future, capturing all trade in northern Europe, as well as trade with Persia and Turkey, which, with the successful development of industry in Russia, becomes even more likely and feasible. Peter is characterized as an intriguer, ready to sacrifice the benefit of his allies every minute. From all this, according to the author, it follows that the king has become extremely dangerous for the whole of Europe, etc. Therefore, it is necessary to beware of him, counteract him and, by the way, prevent Charles XII from further cooperation with Peter; otherwise, all Christianity will not cease to worry. In a word, it came to a crisis.
Actually, Peter was somewhat flattered by such an assessment of his achievements. In his letter to Alexey he wrote “By military affairs, we came out from darkness to light, and whom nobody in the word knew, now they are honored.” [7]
In Bad Pyrmont, where he stayed for few days, Peter had been visited by some diplomats but nothing pf importance did happen. From here he went to Havelberg where he met with FWI who recently cancelled meeting with King George (or rathe Elector Georg Ludwig of Hanover

) and confirmed his loyalty to the Baltic System. Peter wrote about this meeting: “I announce here that our arrival here is not in vain, but with some benefit”. Conversation was about rapprochement with France on the basis of Utrecht and Baden treaties.
From here Peter arrived to Amsterdam and arrived there on December 6 1720. Peter stayed in the Netherlands for several months. During this time, he has been busy with as much foreign policy issues as the acquisition of versatile information in the field of economy, science and arts. On his first visit, he appeared in Holland as an inexperienced sovereign of the little-known Moscow kingdom alien to Europe, but now he could be considered a representative of a great power, a famous commander, an influential member of the Union of States. Since Peter's first stay in Holland, diplomatic relations between Russia and the Netherlands have become more lively. Since then, Russian diplomats in Amsterdam and The Hague, Matveev and Kurakin, have played a rather important role. Russia was increasingly involved in pan-European affairs, and the main city in the Netherlands, The Hague, was at this time that it became the center of diplomatic affairs in Europe. The states-general did not like Russia's growing power. There were different, albeit not particularly important diplomatic clashes between the tsar and Holland on the eve of Peter's arrival in Amsterdam. Holland feared that the Russians would interfere with the freedom of trade in the Baltic Sea, complained about the oppression of Dutch merchants in Russia [8], etc.
While in the Netherlands, Peter fell ill, which served as an official excuse for cancelling his meeting with George I. The meeting did not take place, partly on the occasion of the Peter’s illness, but especially, it seems, due to some discord between Russia and England. The reason for this discord was the question of Russian troops in Northern Germany. While these troops remained in Mecklenburg, the English king considered the situation of Hanoverian possessions dangerous. Therefore, he tried to force Peter to withdraw his troops from Northern Germany. Negotiations on this took place during Peter's illness in the Hague, mostly by Shafirov. However, Peter did not pay attention to the requests and ideas of the English king, emperor, German Sejm and responded to everyone in general terms.
Peter left Holland at the end of March. About his relations to the republic, Preis' reports say, among other things: "It is believed that the Tsar will no longer return here, a circumstance that is interpreted by everyone as a sign of displeasure with the states. There is no doubt that his current stay differed from the previous one by less caution and did not represent much pleasure. In general, here they began to speak about the Tsar with much less respect."
Peter's stay in the Austrian Netherlands, where a solemn reception was given to the king everywhere, was not of particular political significance. Going through Bruges and Ostend to France, Peter, having entered French soil, was in considerable danger. His curiosity to see everything, this dominant passion of Peter, in the words of the Austrian governor Marquis de Prieux, almost cost him his life. Taking advantage of the low tide, he wanted to go around the Dunkirchens bank and went to it in a carriage. Suddenly a strong wind rose; the tide began with extraordinary speed, and the water covered the road on which the Tsar was; he barely had enough time to untie one of the horses and ride away from the danger that threatened him. In France, measures were taken to meet the king everywhere with the honor, although they expressed a desire to travel incognito. However, he did not stay anywhere on his way to Paris for a long time. France does not seem to have made a favorable impression on him. After visiting the richest countries in Europe at that time, the Dutch and Austrian Netherlands, he was struck by the poverty of the population in France. Small wonder after ruinous reign of Louis XIV with its WoSS and the War of Quadruple Alliance, which just ended.
In Paris, two accommodations were prepared for the Tsar: in the Louvre and in the house of Lesdiguieres, owned by Marshal Villeroy. Peter preferred to fit in Lesdiguieres’s house. The day after Peter's arrival, he had a visit to the Duke of Orléans, and the Tsar behaved somewhat proudly. The Duke of Orléans, after a conversation in which Prince Kurakin, who served as an interpreter, praised the Tsar’s mind.
Two days later, the king himself, ten-year-old Louis XV, visited the Tsar and in this case very deftly said his memorized speech. The Tsar seemed delighted, kissed the king and took him several times in his arms. When the next day, April 30, Peter went on a visit to the Tuilerian palace, the young king met Peter with ministers and marshals on the lower porch. Peter took it in his arms and, carrying it up the stairs, as they said later, said: "I carry all France in my hands.”
Peter took a very careful look at the sights of the city of Paris. He was at the observatory, at the anatomical institute, at the tapestry factory, in the art gallery, in the library. Then he looked at the workshop where the statues were made, walked in the Tuilerian garden, watched the structure of the bridge, was in the opera, in the "Hotel des invalides", in various castles, for example, in Meudhon, in S. Cleu, in Issy, Luxembourg Palace, in Versailles, Trianon, Marley, Fontainebleau, Saint-Germain, etc. In Saint-Cira, he inspected the famous women's school established by Ms. Mentenon, and without ceremony went to the room where Ms. Mentenon, wanting to avoid meeting the Tsar, went to bed. Approaching the bed, he, without saying a word or bowing to her, looked at her and then calmly left the room again.
Peter was also at the Sorbonne, where they talked to him about connecting the eastern and western churches, and, however, he behaved cautiously and restrainedly. Then he inspected the royal printing house, was in the board founded by Cardinal Mazarin, was present at the exercitions of the French Guard, at a meeting of parliament, was at the Academy of Sciences, etc. Peter became a member of the Academy of Sciences. In France, his geographical knowledge was especially appreciated. The map of the Caspian Sea, which he showed to the scientist Delil in Paris, completely changed the concepts that existed in the West regarding the shape of this sea. Leaving France, as they say, Peter noted: "I regret the king and France: it will die of luxury".
Contemporaries claim that the French government was not very pleased with the arrival of the king, especially because France was in very close relations to England at that time.
In France, there were people who knew how to appreciate the importance of an alliance with Russia. The Duke of Saint-Simon wrote then in his memoirs: "Nothing else could favor our trade and our weight in the north, in Germany and throughout Europe. In the hands of this monarch was the trade of England (sic), and King George was very afraid of him because of his German possessions. Holland, as well as the Roman emperor, he was able to inspire respect for himself; in short, it is undeniable that he was a very important person in Europe and Asia and that France would benefit a lot from a close alliance with him. He did not like the emperor and wanted little by little to save us from the influence of England, and it is this last country that we owe the fact that in the most indecent way rejected his proposals made to us long after his departure. I have repeatedly insisted in this case with the regent; I presented him with the most sensible and irrefutable arguments in vain... Since then, we have repeatedly had to repent of following the harmful suggestions of England and the insane disregard for the conditions offered to us by Russia.”
Leaving France, Peter authorized Baron Shafirov, Tolstoy and Kurakin to enter into an alliance with France. The treaty was signed only on August 4, in Amsterdam, where Peter was at the time. By virtue of this treaty, the king and kings, French and Prussia, pledged to maintain peace restored by treatises of Utrecht and Baden as well as by the Treaty of Lubeck. The immediate consequence of the conclusion of this treaty was the departure to Russia of French Ambassador Campredon and French consul Villardo.
On June 9, Peter left Paris. On the same day, Danjo noticed in his diary that the king, leaving, promised the Duke of Orleans to withdraw his troops from Mecklenburg and that the English king had asked the regent to exert some pressure on the Tsar in this sense.
Anyway, during Peter's stay in Spa, where he was treated for four days he ordered to remove the Russian troops from Mecklenburg (the Duke, who already created his army of two infantry and two dragoon regiments, also asked him to do this). Peter’s visit to Spa greatly added to the town’s reputation with a resulting greater influx of the visitors.
On the way back Peter stopped, again, in Amsterdam where there were numerous festivities and diplomatic meeting but very little of a substance: no trade treaty had been concluded. From here Peter went for few days to Berlin and then returned to Russia.
On a whole, diplomatic part of the trip was not too successful except for a purely “presentation” part: unlike his first visit, Peter travelled as a head of a powerful state and behaved accordingly.
On a positive side, during Peter’s absence the empire kept functioning without any noticeable problems.
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[1] In OTL in 1716-17. The official goal was the same but diplomatic component quite different (GNW was going on).
[2] As in “town in the Ardennes region of eastern Belgium known for its mineral-rich thermal waters”.
[3] There are various opinions regarding a nature of his “problems” but it seems that among the contemporaries version regarding “social diseases” was quite popular. Official version was “pneumonia” (yeah, like “hemorrhoid colic” or “stroke” ) but a modern conclusion was “The cause of death at the age of 53 was inflammation of an ulcer in the urethra. The consequence of this disease, which caused so much suffering to the Tsar, was chronic gonorrhea. Even not being a medic, I have certain doubts that pneumonia could cause the known symptoms?
[4] This time in lower case.
[5] Brikner “History of Peter the Great”. A big part of this chapter is shamelessly stolen from this work. With the necessary adjustment to fit IITL.

[6] Both the title and contents of this brochure are …er… “abridged” to fit this TL.

[7] Real Peter’s letter to Alexey in 1716.
[8] By 1700 the Dutch merchants had pretty much a free hand in their operations in Russia and, of course, did not have any reason to be happy with the Baltic System and its trade policies.